Flue and Chimney Sweeping
It is universally recommended that flue systems be cleaned and inspected once a year.
In preparing for your flue clean, we will lay blankets down in front of your heater and remove and inspect the baffle plate. Next your flue cap is removed, cleaned and inspected. The flue will then be brushed from the top down* and the upper flue system inspected prior to refittment of the cap. Before leaving the roof the roof flashing will be checked for deterioration and any obvious leaks. The firebox will then be cleaned and checked for damaged internal parts and integrity. The lower flue will be inspected before the baffle plate is replaced. The door and glass seal will be tested for airtight sealing and air controls for correct operation.
Include the above flue clean as well as; firebox wire brush and all seams/joints closely inspected. The fan, if fitted will be removed and serviced. Air controls are checked and if necessary removed adjusted and coated with anti seize. Door is checked for correct sealing and adjusted if necessary. Air ways are checked and cleaned out if needed.
The most important factor in keeping you cooker operating correctly is to keep all heat passages clear of soot and ash. This is especially important for those cookers which have around oven heat flow. Because cookers are run on low a lot of the time, they tend to block up more than woodheaters.
Because of the design of most woodheater fan, servicing is required every few years. As air is drawn into the fan, so is dust, lint and animal hair. These are deposited onto the fan blades and over a period of time build up to not only restrict air flow capacity but the extra weight unbalances the fan. This results in bearings being worn and a noisy fan.
Wether a heater or a cooker the firebox bricks are an important factor in the longevity of life for your appliance. Bricks an be considered sacrificial, apart from thermal retention they are there to protect your firebox from extreme heat which will over time eat away at the cast or steel components. Cracked bricks that are still in place are OK, but if any piece is missing than have the brick replaced.
The biggest reason for dangerous situations is an old worn out flue. Even modern flue is only 0.5mm thick and though usually made from stainless steel, still rust over a period of time. Indication of a worn out flue can be seen along the seams. If the seams are staring to expand rather than a tight overlap, it is time to replace them.
All installations are to Australian Standard 2918 and are fully insured and licensed. Be aware that many of the installations that I come across which have been performed by general plumbers to not come up to the minimum standard. You cannot do an out of the box LEGAL install, there is just not enough parts supplied to do this. One important factor which impinges on best performance is the length of flue required, minimum of 4.6 meters from hearth to cap.
Heater door glass is not glass. It is a pyro ceramic which is a lot tougher and more expensive than hardened or temper glass.
Doors are the most important part in the heater. 9 out of 10 air leak problems are the result of poorly maintained doors. It never fails to impress people how much better their heater performs after they have a door servicing.
If you have continual problems with birds, and I am not quite sure why one flue attracts birds and the one next door does not. Have ‘birdwire’ fitted to the cap and the problem is solved.